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ข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับXU9J4 ครับ
เห็นว่าน่าสนใจ เอาไปอ่านกันเล่นครับ
The 16 valve Peugeot engine is one of the most overlooked powerplants
available. Why it isn't used more in kit cars and the like I don't
know because it knocks most of the current crop of small bore, small
valve, asthmatic 4 pots into a cocked hat. Why is it so good? -
simple - it's all a matter of valve area. The ultimate restriction to
the power potential of any engine is not the bore, the stroke, the
number of cylinders, the engine capacity or the induction system -
it's the total flow potential which limits the amount of air the
engine can process in a given time period and that in turn is a
function of valve area. Look at the valve size of some of the other
modern 4 cylinder 16 valve engines - Rover K series - 27mm, Ford
Zetec - 26mm in the 1600 and 32mm in the 1800 & 2 litre engines, VW
Golf - 32mm, Vauxhall 2.0 XE - 33mm, Peugeot M16 - 34.6mm.

What does all that valve area translate into? Well 160 bhp from 1.9
litres in standard road tune for starters and a whole lot more when
you start tuning it. That's 84 bhp per litre as standard without the
benefit of variable valve timing which many other modern high output
engines rely on. Not only is the valve area huge for the capacity,
the cylinder head and port design is also superb. All this translates
into an awful lot of airflow and that meant Peugeot could get very
good power without needing long duration cams which would have hurt
low rpm tractability. That was why they had no need to use variable
valve timing in the first place.

Any downsides to the engine? Well it's quite a tall engine and so
fitting is not always as straight forward as with shorter lumps. It
was angled over to get bonnet clearance in both 8 and 16 valve
derivatives in the standard vehicles. But being all alloy it is very
light and this means that raising it up a bit to get ground clearance
doesn't hurt the centre of gravity of the vehicle too much.

BOTTOM END
The bottom end is almost identical to the 8 valve engine so no need
to repeat the comments here. The liners are thicker - and in fact
make good high performance units in the 8v engine - the pistons are
also different of course with cutouts for the 4 valves per cylinder.
Both items are expensive from Peugeot but OE spec items can be
obtained at a much better price through the right aftermarket
channels - email me if you need anything. The standard bottom end
seems to withstand 8,000 rpm in road use without problems - only if
you are building a race engine might you consider stronger rods and
pistons. Because of the alloy block, wet liner design there is no
easy way to increase capacity so most rebuilding is concerned with
getting the unit back to good OE condition. 0.5mm oversize pistons
are available through competition channels but the extra 23cc they
give makes no difference worth having.

CYLINDER HEAD
This is the heart of the 16v engine and it's quite superb. Good big
ports, well shaped, high quality guides which don't tend to wear much
and of course those huge valves. The best is to come though. Not only
are the valves huge but the valve seat inserts are even bigger.
Peugeot seem to have gone out of their way to make tuning this engine
easy. The inserts at nearly 37mm are over 2mm bigger than the valves
so you can fit 36.5mm valves without any expensive machining on
bigger inserts. That would normally cost £20 or so per insert and
add
£160 to the cost of a big valve cylinder head. On the Peugeot just
remove the standard valves, recut the seats to suit, increase the
port size and drop those big inlets in. The exhaust valves are plenty
big enough at 29.6mm to not need changing. That means an extra 11%
inlet valve area which translates pretty directly into the same
amount of extra power - in other words an additional 20 to 25 bhp on
a tuned engine for very little additional cost over that of a
modified standard valve head. Add this to the extra flow available
from modifying the standard valve head and you can see that there is
an awful lot of potential tucked away in there.

CAMSHAFTS
The standard cams are fairly mild and a lot of power can be had by
changing them. There will of course be some loss of low rpm
tractability and the cam choice is down to the owner's driving style
and the vehicle weight. In a kit car you can get away with some loss
of low rpm power and maybe use a bit more cam than in a heavier
saloon car. If you run throttle bodies and mapped ignition/injection
then you can use more cam and still retain tractability. Even rally
cams will be ok in a light road car with mapped ignition. Stick with
the hydraulic cams for road use - they can rev to 8,000 without
problem and that's as much as you need for general use. Figure on an
additional 7% (that's about 15 bhp) for fast road cams and up to 12%
(say 25 bhp) for rally cams with the right engine spec.

POWER OUTPUTS
There are so many ways of tuning this engine and it all depends on
your budget. The ultimate way to go is throttle bodies, big valve
head and cams to suit your driving preferences. Not everyone will be
able to afford the full monty though. First off I'd suggest don't
waste your money on aftermarket exhaust systems - the standard item
is very good - save the money and spend it on cylinder head mods
which will increase power throughout the range. As with other engines
the trick is to get as much cylinder head flow as you can and then
use as little cam as you need to avoid losing low rpm power.
Retaining the standard induction system and fitting a properly ported
big valve head and fast road cams will net you 200 bhp at about 7,300
rpm. Add TBs and mappable ignition/injection and you can use more cam
for about 225 bhp at 8,000 rpm. A really well ported big valve head
has the flow potential for 300 bhp but you would need to run the
engine to 10,500 rpm to see that much power and of course without
extensive surgery the standard components won't rev that high. It
does give an idea though of the ultimate potential this engine has
compared to other modern engines which struggle to break the 200 bhp
barrier.

For race use with the right valve springs and bottom end components
the power limit is just a function of your budget. 250 bhp at 9,000
rpm is easy, 270 bhp at 9,500 rpm is possible and that 300 bhp is
there if you can afford it. You'll need very special crank, rods and
pistons to get there though and pretty frequent rebuilds.
โดยคุณ : Mi16 - Mi16 [ 20 มิ.ย. 2544 , 11:40:55 น. ]

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ดีจังครับ ไปเอามาจากไหนมาหรือครับ
อยากทำเหมือนกันแต่คิดไปคิดมาค่าน้ำมันตอนนี้ยังแพงอยู่เลยชะลอไว้ก่อนครับ
โดยคุณ : สิงห์เฒ่า [ 20 มิ.ย. 2544 , 22:52:56 น.]

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หากผมสนใจที่จะโมดิฟายเพิ่มแรงม้าโดยการสั่งอุปกรณ์บางตัวเข้ามา ผมต้องเสียภาษีนำเข้าอย่างไรบ้างครับ ไม่ทราบพอจะแนะนำได้ไหมครับ หากอยู่ในงบประมาณที่ผมรับได้ ผมก็อยากจะทำเพื่อให้เจ้าเอ็มไอของผมมันวิ่งดีกว่านี้อีกครับ
โดยคุณ : เคน - ken [ 20 มิ.ย. 2544 , 23:07:47 น.]

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แค่นี้ยังไม่พออีกหรือครับ ของผมยังไม่เคยใช้ความเร็วสูงสุดเลย คนนั่งข้างๆ เตือนเสียก่อน ถ้าอยากเสียสตางค์ลองเข้าไปดูที่นี่ครับ www.racingsolutions.co.uk/performanceparts.htm ส่วนเรื่องภาษีไม่ทราบครับ น่าจะลองให้ร้านอะไหล่ติดต่อดู เขาน่าจะถนัดมากกว่าเรา
โดยคุณ : Mi16 - Mi16 [ 21 มิ.ย. 2544 , 09:24:38 น.]

ตอบ
เห็นมีผู้สนใจอ่าน เลยเอามาให้อ่านอีกครับ
เป็นปัญหาของฝรั่ง ไม่รู้เหมือนของเราหรือเปล่า ลองอ่านดูครับ
Problems to look out for on the 405!

General Points

Don't get too worried, there are not that many problems with them. Build quality is probably the most noticeable problem on them (especially the early ones). They do not 'fall apart', so I am probably being a bit fussy when I mention build quality. Things to look for are mis-aligned estate door at rear, side doors not shutting to well and squeaks and rattles from inside (mainly series I cars - multipiece 'highline' dash boards).

Rust doesn't seem to be a big problem as with most Peugeots from mid 80's onwards. Check for door rust around the inside edge where it closes against the rubber surround. Alloys (8-spoke ones) are often in a poor state, so don't be surprised if they look like they are 'bubbling up'. The centre caps which cover the wheel nuts on these are often missing (they are metal) as they tend to fly off or get stolen easily. I had two stolen recently from mine, luckily they only cost around a £10 each now to replace (new ones from Peugeot). You could always get some cheaper elsewhere.You can always get the wheels re-conditioned anyway (as with all alloys).

condition, on the rear of my 405.

Something I have noticed on a few estates is that the lacquer on the rear black quarters either side of the rear window tends to peal off ! In addition, the rubbers surrounding the rear window also come out alot - these are easily put back in place with a little glue!

Before buying, in addition to the general points, check the following;

Running Gear / Engine Etc.

1. Diesels - Head Gasket problems (especially Turbo examples). All XUD engine cars can suffer from this, the 405 is no exception. It is estimated that 1 in 10 cars can have this happen to them. Check history of the car (Service History is always important on Diesels - Oil changes every 6K a must), if it suffers from Head problems, they are likely to re-occur. It is due to overheating, which Peugeot it appears have never quite fixed the cause of the problem. You can check the contents of the radiator to tell. If it appears to be full of 'mulch', i.e. curdled looking cloudy stuff, walk away and don't buy! Also try and check the radiator electric fan by letting the thing tick over until it cuts in. If it is not working, a head gasket failure is waiting to happen ! The other signs can be poor performance, mis-firing and most definitely, regular water loss. The later could be just a small leak from a hose, but if combined with other symptoms then a head gasket failure is the likely cause

2. Gearboxes on early cars can suffer from synchromesh failure - if it has a collar to lift to select reverse it has a early 'box'. See how it drives, if the syncro's feel OK (especially 3rd gear), its not to much to worry about. Most have probably been fixed by now anyway.

3. Stiff gear linkages. At best the gear change will be fairly 'slow', but if its extremely hard to change smoothly then the linkage is probably seizing up! If plenty of grease doesn't fix it you'll be in need of a complete new linkage. Don't judge the gear change when cold - they are always a bit 'balky', let it warm up fully to test for problems.

4. Rear Suspension arms can be easily bent when cars have been 'curbed'. Not an huge repair bill, but still warrants knocking down the price. View from the rear and check to see the rear wheels are aligned. Most 405 estates tend to have both wheels slightly tapered in at the top - as long as they look the same sort of angle the cars probably OK. Also check for worn rear shocks. Although the rear-suspension is one of the best in the business, if its had a hard life (quite a few do!) the rear shocks do wear out. However - even if the shocks feel tired, they probably won't fail an MOT test, so unless you want to keep the handling of the car like new it probably isn't worth changing them.

5. Windscreen damage. The front screen is 'glued' on and is a pain! If it has any sign a cracking or serious chipping knock £250 of the price or get the seller to put a new one in. Of course, insurance should cover it when purchased so that won't be a problem then.

6. Air -Conditioning. If its got Air-con (which is a very useful item as it was fitted to loads of late ones), make sure it works ! If it doesn't, get the seller to knock off a lot (£400 ?) or better still, get them to fix it. The Condenser, Compressor and pump cost a packet - and recharging the refrigerant is a bit of a specialist job too. The most common problem is when the refrigerant gets saturated with humidity. This normally is cured by draining and renewing the refrigerant, and changing the 'drier' bottle. This is all specialist work and should be done by a qualified air-con specialist or Peugeot dealership. A common complaint is the air-con on/off switch, which appears to be a little weak and can feel like it is not working.

7. Cam belts !!!! - Diesels. This has got to be the most vital thing to look for on an XUD engine. They need changing every 48K miles on cars pre 95. After this (not sure of exact date - I will try and find out), and my Sep 95 car included, the specification relaxed to every 72K miles. If in doubt, get it changed before or as soon as you buy - the MOT test is an engine killer if your cam belt is in poor condition. The only problem is that it will normally cost you over £100 for a new one - although if you shop around a bit, you can get below the £100 mark (labour included - if you do it yourself, it will only cost you £15 for the belt, but probably take you a day to complete!). Worth the money though ! Petrol engines belts also need regular changing, but are not as fatal or expensive to change / repair.

8. Rear Exhaust Silencers (late models) Normally speaking, I wouldn't mention something like an exhaust as it is a 'wear and tear' item. However, there appears to be a weak point in the design of the rear silencers fitted to 405D's from around 94 onwards. You can tell if the car has a late exhaust, because it is not a round silencer, but a huge rectangular shape box which takes up a large amount of space under the car (near side). The small section of pipe going into the box tends to corrode quickly, splits and lets the box almost fall off. The silencer itself is still perfectly OK - but normally can not be repaired due to the place where the pipe has split. Not a major problem - but rather annoying to say the least! Check before you buy - place your hand / foot over the tail pipe and look for any signs of smoke billowing out the rear wheel arch etc. If its got a hole, knock down the price. It is sometimes difficult to hear a blowing exhaust on a Diesel !

9. Handbrake Cables It appears that a lot of the x05 1980's designed cars suffer from handbrake cable problems. I have only had one go on my 405, but I have received quite a few emails suggesting there is a bit of a weak point here. My 205 has got through loads of cables in the 6 years I've had it. They are a very similar design to the 405. Even when the handbrake is working on a 405, it can sometimes feel a bit dodgey - my one included.

10. Petrol engines - Valve guide wear. Beware of early petrol engines which puff out blue smoke! This is more than likely due to excessive wear on the valve guides. Not a big problem if it happens only on start up, but if it uses a lot of oil, the engine will require valve work. This problem seems to be due to unleaded petrol causing the wear. A drop of 4 star every now and then (or lead additive after Jan 2000) is worth an investment. Later engines do not seem to suffer as badly (nor should they as they were designed for unleaded fuel - unlike the early engines). All 405's should be able to run on unleaded (not sure about Mi16 1.9 16v - anyone confirm out there ?)

11. Petrol engine Carburetors - Peugeot petrol cars fitted with Carburetors (non-fuel injected versions) can suffer with many problems which normally end up being caused by the carburetor. Symptoms can be poor starting (hot or cold or both!), flat spots, hesitance when accelerating briskly, and stalling. With the 405 this is limited to the earlier 1.6 and 1.9 models. Overhaul of the carburetor can cure most problems, but alternatively you could go for a Webber replacement which is much better. Check for any of the above symptoms when test driving a car (if you can!).
โดยคุณ : Mi16 - Mi16 [ 21 มิ.ย. 2544 , 10:06:01 น.]

ตอบ
ผมอยากให้มีอัตราเร่งแซงที่ดีกว่านี้อีกครับ รวมทั้งต้นด้วยครับ ผมไม่เน้นปลายครับ เพราะอันตรายมาก เคยแค่ 170 ก็ไม่ไหวแล้วครับ ถอนครับ ต้องรีบถอน ความดันเต้นไม่เป็นจังหวะเลยครับ เหมือนตอนเห็นสาวสวย ๆ เลยครับ หัวใจตกไปที่ตาตุ่มทุกที
ส่วนที่เพิ่มเติมมาขอบคุณมากครับ แต่ว่าเคยอ่านเจอใน เวปต่างประเทศแล้วครับ ตามที่คุณสิงห์เฒ่าแนะนำมาอะครับ ผมสงสัยอีกอย่างครับ ในเวปต่างประเทศก็มีข้อสงสัยเรื่องน้ำมัน unleaded ว่าจะใช้กัย เอ็มไอ 16 ได้หรือป่าว ที่ได้หมายถึงว่าจะไม่ทำอันตรายกับวาล์วอย่างสิ้นเชิง ข้อนี้ยังไม่มีใครให้คำตอบที่แน่ชัดนะครับ แนะนำด้วยครับ เกือบลืมครับ รูปเครืองที่ลงไว้มีกี่ม้าครับ น่าสนจัง
โดยคุณ : ken - ken [ 23 มิ.ย. 2544 , 01:34:46 น.]

ตอบ
ผมก็ไม่แน่ใจนะครับคุณken แต่ว่าที่ยุโรปมันก็ไม่มีน้ำมัน lead แล้วนี่ครับ แล้วรถรุ่นนี้มันก็ยังมีวิ่งกันอยู่เกลื่อนเลย ไม่น่าจะเป็นอะไรนะครับ
ปล. เดี๋ยวนี้น้ำมันไร้สารตะกั่วรู้สึกจะมีสารทดแทนเพื่อป้องกันบ่าวาล์วสึกแล้วนะครับ แต่ไม่รู้ว่า 100% แค่ไหนครับ
โดยคุณ : สิงห์เฒ่า [ 23 มิ.ย. 2544 , 09:45:41 น.]

ตอบ
ที่เมืองนอกEngland จะมีสารทดแทนตะกั่วครับ ขวดละประมาณ 200กว่าบาท ใช้ทีละนิดครับ
ใช้ได้ประมาณเต็มถัง5ครั้งครับ
สีของเหลวนี้สีแดงครับ
โดยคุณ : bob [ 26 มิ.ย. 2544 , 20:07:27 น.]

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